This week I will assemble my jacket, focusing on a few places where I can provide you with some good sewing tips.
- Princess Seams
- Jacket to Jacket Lining
- Marking the Buttonhole
- My project
First, I will go over the assembly process, and at the end I include my personal fittings and adjustments.
Sewing princess seams
Everyone’s got their own approach to sewing a princess seams, and I’m no different, so let me share with you my technique step by step…then choose your favorite. I start with the lining because I can do a test run on the inside construction first. Any mistake won’t be as noticeable and I can do a better job on the second run making the shell. Remember that the sleeve dart was already sewn in the “prepare the parts” section. Start with the front and side front facing you, right sides up. This is especially important when the right and wrong side look the same.
Lay the side front over the front. I’ve got mine turned around because this is the direction it will go under my machine. The CURVED side, or side front, is always on top, with the straight edge to the feed dogs. I’ve pinned up to curve as it bends away.
Sewing just to the curve, I lift my presser foot, then lift my fabric from the rear of the machine, allowing the fabric to bend around and match the curve to the straight edge again-
Keep lifting and sewing little by little each time they separate until you get all the way around that curve.
This photo what it looks like from the inside. That curved edge will ripples against the straight edge just a little. Do not pull or stretch your fabric as you sew, just let it match together naturally. to the straight edge on the other side. Continue sewing around that curve and along the straight edge to the end, and don’t worry, the two sides will match perfectly!
Clip the seam allowance in that curved area in a “V” configuration and then press open from the wrong side and again on the right side. Place the bust curve on the end of your ironing board, the end falling off the edge. I don’t want to press the curve out of my jacket. Turn your front around and press the other end up to the curve.
Jacket to jacket lining
My front and back lining are ready to put together. Sew the shell similarly, but leave an opening in the lining only. Sew the front at back at the shoulder/sleeve and under arm/side seam (not shown), then clip the under arm curves.
Once your jacket shell is together, pin the lining to the jacket, right sides together, all around the neckline, down the front and around the back.
Being the crazy woman I am for perfection, I mark those corners with a ruler and chalk. I want crisp symmetrical corners, and that’s the way to get them! I mark on the interfacing side, because another rule of mine is while sewing, the most STABLE side of your project faces up, with the stretchy- unstable side to the feed dogs. Now you are ready to sew. Trim the seam, clip all the curves.
Through that opening in the lining, pull the jacket right side out, lining to the right and shell to the left, seam in the middle.
Slip a ham or a sleeve press into that hole to maneuver the seam, pressing the allowance toward the lining all the way around- and if you are making the jacket with the lapel like I am- press just the front lapel seam toward the jacket. This is in preparation for the understitching. which turns the seam (to the stitched side) so that it’s nearly invisible from the front. Through that same opening, understitch the seam all the way around.
At the shoulder I changed the stitch from the lining side to the front side for the lapel.
All but the sharp corners are stitched. The sewing machine can’t get into that corner, but stitching as close as possible keeps that seam curved in the correct direction.
Once the understitching is done, those edges will press nicely and flat. Through that hole, pull the jacket wrong side out just once more.
With the wrong side out, I can now pin and sew that side back opening closed.
Turn the jacket right side out through the sleeve.
Sewing the cuff
Again, head for the iron and give your last bit of stitching a press and align the sleeves, lining to shell,pin and baste.
Pin and sew the cuff in place. Fold up the cuff, overlapping the fold to your stitching just slightly.
Here is what that “stitch in the ditch” set up looks like. Pin carefully, then sew carefully with the right side of the cuff towards you.
Sewn carefully, we can barely see the stitching. Hand stitching is also an option.
Marking the buttonhole
With ruler and pencil, mark the front with a seam allowance.
Fold the seam allowance under and place pattern over jacket front, right side. Place pins at key points, such as roll line and either end of the buttonhole.
Lift the paper and mark between pins with chalk and ruler.
With my buttonhole marked, I’ll now fold back the lapel along the roll line and give it a press. Using the instruction from your sewing machine manual, sew your button hole, match it up to the left side to mark the button placement, and you are finished!
Here is how my dress came out:
I’ve created a pinterest board for those who followed by email, and invite you to see what others have been sewing.. Thanks for joining the sew along, and I hope you have learned a few things along the way. I invite stay in touch through social media or by joining my mailing list! As always, have a great sewing day!